Jil Sander Fall 2012

“This is my last couture collection” is what Raf Simons said last season after his Spring 2012 presentation. I sense that was a lie.The feminine sensuality of the clothes in Simons’ final outing spoke to something masterful that we don’t see very often in ready-to-wear collections.

The set sends a clear message about the designer’s direction, one which the industry has become accustomed to for the last six years. It was subtlety. Floral arrangements in cases were placed sparingly around the set. More important, the clothes use floral colors, but not prints. On a note of sexiness, Simons’ light-handed nature never failed. Sheer textiles played a role. And on model Hanne Odiele, the outline of nude cashmere body suit was applied to a soft white dress.

The collection was also dominated by Simons’ fabulous coats. They seemed to encase the models’ bodies as they held them. Couture also had bearing on this Jil Sander presentation. The classic collars and knee-grazing hems of the coats were smart references to 20th century elegance. Aside from interesting message of the coats, the designer’s choice to put them in the collection led to a funereal mood. With the clinical set, flower arrangements, and constant narration of Mazzy Star’s Fade into You, the tone was a bit depressing. But what else could it be? One of the best designers of our time has just shown some of his best work. And he’s leaving.

Whether he’s headed towards Dior or not, the Wintour-led standing ovation for Simons is a sign that he’ll do great things.  And the industry can find solace in that fact. Plus, they get to wear this collection as evidence to that end.