Prada Menswear Spring 2013

Miuccia Prada is a committed ideologue. More than anyone else, she takes an idea and uses it to cover her collection like a consistent blanket. Though previous seasons have been cohesive presentations of varied ideas, this recent menswear collection was about one single, resonant thought: egalitarianism.

Athletic color-blocking and sweat bands figured big. Much of the imagery recalled “Meet the Tenenbaums.” But for Miuccia Prada such influences would be too obvious. In fact, there’s much doubt as to whether cinema references had any bearing on this showing. Fashion changes, but Miuccia Prada’s resilient ability to prevent fashion from influencing her design is constant. It was on full display here. Prada concerned herself with the theme of sameness and equity. There was a true sense of the Prada uniform.

Presented on both men and women, old and young, the clothes sparked many reactions with the term “unisex.” It’s appropriate terminology considering that the straight-legged pants and dressing sensibilities mirrored an interplay between the feminine and the masculine, which is both new and old for Prada. The blazers paired with blouse-like tees and practical pants seemed more Parisian Céline customer and less slick masculine Italian, in terms of approaches to dressing. In any other case, a buyer would remark that Prada “knows what women want.” So, too, she knows how they dress. And she applied feminine tactics to this collection with great success.

Above all, this Prada collection was a rarity. It’s not often that a Prada piece seems so necessary. Of course, accessories are always major sales points. But for the first time in a long time, much of Prada’s work seemed like special, attractive items of fashion, not just design. The sandals, the jackets, the pants: each piece sparked the viewers appetite for more.

This collection, in many ways, was a turning point for Miuccia Prada. The blogosphere is certainly questioning what’s next. After such a blank slate presentation, one can only wonder.