Jason Wu Fall 2011/2012

Tailoring plays a large role in Jason Wu’s collection. Not surprisingly, it played a large role in his collection for fall. But what sets this utilization of technique and skill apart from the other instances is the fact that this time tailoring served as a champion for the idea behind the clothes; that is, the precise, exquisite tailoring served to reinforce the idea of simple yet “baroque” sportswear. That type of balanced aesthetic runs throughout this feminine, yet austere collection.

As for the baroque, an ambitious Jason Wu took many of the pieces to the precipice of bombast. Elegant paillettes were meticulously applied to an even more elegant canvas of gilded lace to create the dress worn by Joan Smalls; ombré-esque feathers were applied to the silken dress on Lindsay Wixon; the feathers also found presence on the sheer cardigan worn by Alana Zimmer. The baroque idea even touched the smaller details; instead of leaving a gray coat in an otherwise minimalist state, Wu decided to apply a small strip of black lace down the sleeve. A fitting touch.

However, never failing to fulfill a minimalist tendency, Wu put these baroque elements on the backdrop of some equally simplistic elements. Alana Zimmer’s sheer, feather embroidered cardigan was intelligently paired with sporty, sleek pants, while the red blouse ensemble on Julia Saner (shown right) was anchored by a practical red jacket. Even the impressive dress on Joan Smalls was done in a simple, form-fitting silhouette.

Such smart, elegant balance is hard for some older designers to attain; such harmonious swing between the baroque and the practical is not something that everyone can do. If anything is indicative of Jason Wu’s talent, it is certainly his mastery of this relationship between the two aesthetic opposites.

That being said, it may not be most prudent to conclude that Wu is the emperor of 21st century American fashion, but somethings about this excellent, young designers are true. One of those is that he is certainly rising in the ranks.