Writer for Bite Magazine, Senior Men's Fashion Editor at The WALK
A collection of interesting images, writings, and other media on fashion and culture.
I am Marnie from ‘Girls.’ Like I just feel this connection to Marnie.
Maybe it’s because her name reminds me of Marni, like the brand. That’s why.
luxe-pauvre: ‘Spectacular’ by Daniel Riera for The Gentlewoman, Issue 5
War Child. I reserve this word for never, but this photo is fierce. Whoever this individual is, she looks sophisticated beyond her years.
Stella McCartney Fall 2012
In a recent interview, designer Phoebe Philo resisted defining the “Céline woman.” Stella McCartney holds no such reservations. The Stella McCartney woman is “balanced,” she says. And this collection proves it. The key selling point came in the form of practical pieces that experimented with form without sacrificing function. Sweaters were inflated and deflated to achieve new shapes, but the purpose never changed: they were to be worn. One look in pale cerulean was clearly oriented towards a countryside weekend, an anomaly in a very urban McCartney collection.
There was also a sense of evolution. For a few seasons, McCartney has played with the female form, always managing to celebrate it in some way. The presentation is always sensuous, somehow. An exaggerated hourglass silhouette provided an interesting mold for a beige sweater dress. This time McCartney’s experimentation felt more sophisticated, as if something vital had been grasped.
Perhaps this vital element was balance. Embroidered floral prints were done in a minimal blue selection that was dispersed throughout. Coats, which McCartney used to explore volume, remained quite practical. They were done in classic tweeds, accented with very modern interjections of what McCartney called her “strong blue.”
Stella McCartney rarely loses sight of her consumer. Yet, like her brand’s woman, she is able to balance the needs of the customer with her desire to undertake challenges. In achieving this balance, the designer has forged a success once more.
Givenchy Menswear Fall Menswear 2012
Youthful rebellion has been a lesser theme in the past collections. Everyone has decided to grow up a little with suits and dark tones. But Tisci’s latest Givenchy collection isa strong rejection against age. Through motifs like censorship, youth, and rebellion, Tisci achieves a defiant yet fabulous effect.
The first element to notice about the gothic use of black. At first, the color seems to fit into the mold cast by equally sinister collections, like Ferragamo of Milan and Yves Saint Laurent of the same day. But as the progression mounts, the idea of censorship seems to takeover. There are many small details in this collection, and on the most important is the patent leather American flags. While the colorful stars and stripes appear elsewhere, the initial looks featured suits with blacked-out hues on flags.
A sense of the young rebel as Tisci’s man came into play with the development of other images, such as the extreme nose piercings and black boots that recall something out of the skinhead look of the 1980s. To add lightness, Tisci smartly added a healthy serving of skirts and leggings, a bit of a juvenile quirk.
In a way, this collection was a manifesto, a defiance of the consistent, conservative look shown in Milan. Looking deeper, it seems that Tisci aimed for a political message through his selections: revolution fare. As SOPA and PIPA are protested online and as the world remains in uncertainty, Tisci’s collection was especially relevant.
On Céline: “Minimalism, Defined”
Philo’s most recent collection for Céline was an exercise in balancing two opposing forces. Whereas previous collections’ focus was lenient to one side of the scale (albeit successfully and elegantly), this recent showing reconciles two different forces: the growing influence of outside trends and the waning influence of previous collections.
The first of these dual forces is represented by the on-trend quality of the collection. Just as in the collections of Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens, Balenciaga, and Comme Des Garçons, this Céline showing included the haute couture references so widely seen this season. Voluminous jackets, contrasting proportions, and peplum accents are notable highlights of the past collections. This time, Philo’s work resonated with such trends. In numerous looks, woolen jackets were given geometric volume, a possible reference to the couture suits of previous decades. Cigarette pants in luxurious black brocade also alluded to Dior’s work in the 20th century. Philo even demonstrated a taste for peplum in the way her belted tunic flared out; it was just enough to be a clear reference but just enough to remain modern and moderated.
Despite the influence of the new, however, Philo’s work also alludes to her previous collections. The use of black leather, which she first showed in 2008, was a prominent feature in a few tops; platform shoes made another appearance on the runway. But what’s important to notice here—apart from the references to Philo’s previous triumphs—is that the references are subdued to the lowest degree possible. In previous collections, Philo’s work of the past season always had a strong presence; even in Resort and Fall, she showed the cleanly cut shirts from 2008 and 2009. In this collection, the designer has provided a way to move forward; it is a glimpse of the clean slate to come.
The way Philo achieves this balance is through her reliance on minimalism. Now, let me be as explicit as possible: minimalism is not simply a clean line or a sleek jacket. Minimalism is the study of condensing the joy of fashion down to the common denominator. It’s true that this practice often leads to a sleek jacket, but it is also true that this practice might lead to a voluminous yet modern gown. In Philo’s collection, this principle was clear. In the design of her cigarette pants, one can see that Philo has taken the elegance of a brocade dress and striped it down to a practical yet beautiful piece for the everyday woman. Voluminous princess sleeves became geometric, cropped jackets.
Overall the collection may not please every Céline customer, but it is certainly a triumph for the designer behind the brand.
Many collections this season have reached a plateau, riding along the same plane in New York, Milan, and Paris; Balenciaga, however, has reached such a cathartic level of genius that no one can deny Ghesquière’s genius.
Balenciaga just made the world stop for a second. Along with the rest of his work, the designer has established his position in the historic parthenon of designers.
The new Little Dragon album entitled ‘Ritual Union’ is simply too good. Give it a listen; I’m sure it won’t disappoint.
It’s more aggressive than ‘Machine Dreams,’ but it’s nothing that would overwhelm you, in any way. It flows and changes and excites. It’s that special genre of chill music, that relaxes yet simultaneously scintillates. Love it.
Dries Van Noten Menswear Spring 2012
One of the best menswear collection this year. I mean…so good. More than good. Genius.The form, the look, the taste, the refinement, the challenging ideas, the fabric. Just…
There is a deficit of words available to describe this immaculate perfection.