Writer for Bite Magazine, Senior Men's Fashion Editor at The WALK
A collection of interesting images, writings, and other media on fashion and culture.
Aymeline Valade by Emma Summerton for Vogue Japan, February 2013
Balenciaga Fall 2012
It was an 1980s revival at the latest Balenciaga collection. Staged in a skyscraper, the entire collection seemed bring geek to chic, and sometimes back to geek. Techno elements of this collection, like the austere motorcycle jackets and hemless sweaters, never fell behind the trend arc that Ghesquière so frequently leads.
Joining his colleagues, however, the designer made a brief comment on the idea of ugly beauty that is so prevalent this season, with broad shoulders and dated leather accessories. Yet one knows that what was shown in this Balenciaga presentation will quickly become the manna for the starlets of the blogosphere. I suspect this is because of the dramatic exaggeration of the collection. Broad shoulders both expanded the models’ silhouettes and caused spectators to recall the worst of fashion’s less chic 1980s period. A-line skirts featured a broad pleat that jutted into open space, creating extreme volume to accompany jackets that were largely drawn away from the torso.
Setting his sights on evening, the designer showed beautifully garish nylon lamé paints and puffed outerwear. Also of note was the cool flattened floral print on one of the designer’s trench coats. It was especially electronic in its design. Ghesquière is notoriously prescient, so maybe his fabric experimentation is a sign for next seasons designers.
In all, this collection seemed more formal than Ghesquière’s Spring presentation. There was a sense of strictness that underscored much of what the designer did. It wasn’t as successful as some of his other work. Yet it still was one of the season’s best.
Oh my gashaa.